MATTHEW JUKES: 2014 EN PRIMIER

May 13th, 2015 @ 07:34am Jonathan Maltus Wine 0 Maltus

 

 

 
Le Dome 18+
The depth and fruit-sweetness if this wine are absolutely superb. This is a rather perfumed Le Dôme with violets and roses leading the way, a sleek palate, closed and brooding in the middle, and very long and lithe finish bringing up the ear. With excellent depth and lovely savoury notes throughout, this is a clever wine with lowish alcohol and mouth-watering, powdery tannins which draw out the finish to an admirable length.
 
Vieux Chateau Mazerat 18+
This vineyard is bordered by starry Chateau – Ausone, Canon and Angélus. I am a fan of VCM and while it has, in the past, stayed a respectful pace or two behind its lore famous stablemate Me Dome, I see no reason for this to be the time-honoured hierarchy in this diverse portfolio. I feel that in the 2014, Le Dome (q.v.) is a little quieter and more introverted that usual and it will need time to build momentum and charm, whereas Vieux Chateau Mazerat is almost the opposite. With richness, sexiness and lush tannins too, this is a bigger, more imposing wine and it will age beautifully while maintaining aromatic allure at all times. The oak is well judged and the length and tone of the violet and red fruit is superb. A triumph
 
Les Astéries 17.5++
This is a deeper, more profound wine than Maltus’s other single vineyard beauty, Le Carré, with firm, dark cherry notes and spicy, but refreshing, tannins. The power is intriguging and the depth of black fruit is delicious, but I would have liked just a little more plush fruit on the palate because it finished quite dry. No doubt this will arrive but be prepared to be patient.
 
Le Nardian (Lugaignac) 17+
With creamy, lemon meringue pie notes and a long, frippy finish this is a classic game of two halves wine. Only ten barrels were made of this interesting and exotic wine and the key to its success is the acid which balances the lush mid-palate. Lovely, sour lemon fruit comes from the very low yields and the bracing acidity reveals itself with raw, pith notes.
 
Chateau Laforge 17
With gravel, clay and sandy soil contributing fruit to this wine, the layering of flavour in Merlot-dominated Laforge is fasinating. The nose is sexy and plush and the alate is layered, with great length. Picking late increased the weight of this wine and leaving the wine on skins for a little longer than normal lengthened the palate, too. Laforge has a moved into a new era in 2014 – let’s hope that Maltus can keep this up because the blackberry-soaed fruite is lovely, long, not too powerful or astringent and irresistibly lip-smacking.
 
Le Carré 16.5+?
This is a rather spicey and edgt wine and it is a little sour and lean on the finish, too. There is a tightness and lated power which is a little bit too challenging right now. It needs five years to even out and might work, but I am slightly worried about the oak/ sourness ration hence my question mark.
 
Chateau Teyssier 16.5
With a decent fruit attack, on the black side of the tracks, this is a smooth and very attactive wine. There is some good power here, too, which is surprising given the size of production – some 15,000 cases! With nice length and good, fit tannins Teyssier will age well, too, even through it is already balanced and smooth. Some red fruit flashed come into view on the back palate giving a degree of rare complexity – a great effort and thoroughly deserving of this score.
 

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